MERRIFIELD, Mrs Mary Philadelphia. Dress as a Fine Art. xiii, [1], 173, [1], [2]pp adverts for other titles in the Railway Reading series., 22pp publishers’ catalogue., half-title, and a preliminary advert for Mrs Merrifield’s other publications., woodcut text illustrations. A good copy in original blind stamped and gilt lettered limp olive green linen cloth. Gilt stamped ‘Railway Reading’ on the upper cover. Some slight foxing, and small strip of cloth on the upper cover missing from the leading edge. The preface is dated Brighton, January 21st, 1854. 8vo. Arthur Hall, Virtue & Co. 1854. Her Essays were originally published in the 'Art-Journal' and in 'Sharpe's London Magazine'. A suitably genteel title for ‘public’ reading by ladies. The American edition (Boston, 1854) was issued in hardback format, with plates. It has been noted as being the first book on dress history to be written by a woman. “It is s a fascinating overview of present and historical fashion, focussing on many aspects of clothing, such as particular cuts, embellishments, footwear, patterns, and even children’s clothes. Unsurprisingly for a woman who had spent the previous decade researching colour history, there is a long chapter on colour in fashion, and how to find the right colours for your complexion and hair tone. Is it possible that Merrifield was the first woman to write about what seems a particular fashionable trend now – ‘finding your palette’ in clothing and make-up etc? Merrifield was critical of some of the ‘absurdities’ of Paris fashion and certain ‘freaks of fashion’ in previous centuries, and how ‘fashion, with its usual caprice, has interfered with nature’ and ‘natural philosophy’... By contrast, she considered some Greek and Middle-eastern costume much more elegant and in keeping with the natural shape of a woman’s body.” Ref: Dr. Alexandra Loske, Art Historian and Curator, Brighton & Hove Museums.